Getting Started: Beginner To Advanced

          Let me start this off on three very important notes that should never be forgotten.

Also, please keep in mind that I will do my best to state facts, rather than my opinion. Read everything thoroughly, and do even more research until you are satisfied that you will be happy with your bowfishing experience, and you are equipped to suit your needs! Now my three very important notes.

 

1.      Utilize what you are after! It is hard enjoying something when there are others out there trying to make it illegal. Some things you can do with your daily take may include:

·        Table fare. That’s right eat ‘em!

·        Fertilizer. This may include for your own garden, or if you know any farmers that are willing to let you put your fish on their fields to be plowed under. People have also successfully turned the fish into compost that is reportedly some of the best available.

·        Bait. This may include bait for varmit hunting or turtle trapping. You can also create an oil from the fish to use as a scent.

·        Donate the fish to an animal shelter that has animals such as coyotes, fox, bobcat, you name it. With a little research these places are not hard to find, and are usually very happy to accept your fish to use as food for the wild animals in their shelter, saving them money!

2.      Safety, Safety, Safety! This is a no brainer. How can we expect to pass on our  traditions if you are not safe, or teaching safety!

3.      Bowfishing does not have to be expensive at all! The further you advance in this sport, the more advanced the equipment becomes, along with cost.

 

          That being said, let’s get onto the nity gritty. Remember that any of the specific items I may mention for bowfishing is available through the bowfishing suppliers in my links section. I do not suggest that you purchase any equipment from your local Wal-Mart or Meijer stores. Save the time and pain, go through a retailer that deals with bowfishing equipment, they can stear you in the right direction, making your bowfishing trip a lasting memory instead of a painful learning experience.

 

          The first thing you will need is a bow. Below is a photo of some of the typical bow’s you can use for bowfishing. The picture includes longbows, recurves, and a compound. In Ohio any of these bows are acceptable.The bow you use is simply a personal preference, although when hunting, some species may require specific set-ups. I will touch on this only briefly as the more you learn about bowfishing, this information becomes second hand. Recurves and longbows are great for that specific fish that will only allow you enough time for one very fast shot. Some species that provide only brief glimpses for you to target may include, Paddlefish, Alligator Gar, Silver Carp, Bighead Carp, Sharks, Singrays, and several others. As you advance further into the sport, it is not uncommon to carry more than one bow, sometimes different types with different set-ups. This allows you to share the fun with a friend and let them use the bow, or you can use the other bow as a back-up. Some places I suggest you go looking for your starter bow could include garage sales, flea markets, auctions, or from the classified adds. I got my first bowfishing rig from the Kenton national coon dog trials. It came with everything from a case , hunting arrows and broadheads, to a spool and arrow for bowfishing. Total price? $25.

 

 

          Ok you now have a bow, what is next? An arrow. I know some people who have successfully modified hunting arrows by drilling a hole near the end and inserting a nail or piece of clothes hanger, then bending it into a V shape. That method saves you the cost of buying a bowfishing specific arrow, although I do not recommend it. Bowfishing arrows are like all other equipment, the further you advance in the sport, the more expensive the arrows become. Simple bowfishing arrows are made of solid fiberglass and are quite lengthy. This is great for shooting at large carp, and also shooting into potentially rocky water. Remember my safety note! More arrows include carbon spined fiberglass, fiberglass filled aluminum, solid aluminum, thick walled aluminum, carbon, and others. Choose as you see fit, although the larger the prey, the more of a heavy duty arrow you will need. Along with an arrow comes ways to attach the line to the arrow. Some methods include tying to the arrows point, tying to the arrows nock end, tying to a cable with a swivel, or a few versions of a safety slide. I strongly suggest a safety slide due to none other then……. SAFETY. With a safety slide, as you draw your arrow back, a slide that your line attaches to simply slides forward on your arrow. This in turn keeps the line out of harms way, further preventing the line from getting snagged on something and coming back at you. There are suggested methods to attach the line directly to the back of arrow for specific fish, but in Ohio this does not apply.

 

          Now that you have an arrow selected, let’s look at points. There are so many different points available that I will not mention all of them. Go through the suppliers in my links section to select the point you like. I will make a few suggestions, so take this advice as my opinion only. I have shot many different types of points and stay with what works. What has worked for me are the Muzzy points, as well as the Innerlocks. Some points may be better for some fish then they are others. Do some research first. If you are dealing with soft bellied fish, get a point that has long barbs. On the other hand, larger tough skinned fish such as gator gar will need a smaller barb with a sharp point in order to penetrate. In Ohio I have never had a problem with either the muzzy or the Innerlocks. One benefit of both is the replaceable tips. Shooting into rocks can be hard on the tips no matter what your choice is, ensure that whatever point you buy has replaceable tips.

 

          So now you have a bow, now what. I have heard of people shooting carp in shallow water rivers and simply chasing the arrow until you can grab it. That would certainly eliminate the cost of buying a reel. Below you will see a picture of several different reels to attach to your new bow. Again , this item will be based on your own preference, and the fancier you get, the more costly it will become. I am not trying to scare you away from the more advanced items, just making you aware. Along the same lines as bow’s, the reel type can sometimes be better matched to the fish you are going after. In Ohio any of these reels will be fine. Some of the reel types available can include, hand reel spool, spincast reel, and retriever. The hand wrap spool type can be either a tape on model, or have all thread that attaches to the stabilizer hole on the front of the bow. You can use black electrical tape, or even grey duct tape to fasten the tape on model. On both models of the spool type reel, there will be a hole on the spool in the back, as well as a little clip located somewhere on the side. The hole is for tying the end of your line to the reel so that you will not lose your arrow. The clip is for slipping the loose line behind so that when you draw, the line will not start unspooling from the reel. It also is great for holding your line in place on those windy days. The spincast reel will require you also buy a reel seat to attach the reel to. The reel seat attaches to the stabilizer mount. The one draw back from this set-up is the button must be manually pushed before drawing back and releasing your arrow. Failure to do so can result in a lost arrow, or the arrow coming back and smacking you in the face. Now the retriever. This beauty is the most expensive of all the reel selections available, but well worth every penny. Again that is my opinion so do your homework. This reel is a zero drag reel. That meens that you simply draw your arrow and let it fly. In order to reel in your arrow, you pull a trigger that pinches the line between two rubber rollers, allowing the line to be retrieved. Go to the suppliers in my links to purchase any of these reels available.

 

                               

                                              

 

          Let’s discuss line briefly. There are many different types, pick what suits your needs. Most people use heavy duty monofilament,  braided Dacron, or Spiderwire type line. I would suggest you go no less then 100 pound test line in whatever category you choose. The larger the prey, the heavier the line.

 

          Now your are almost ready. I would like to suggest you bring along a spare parts inventory. Eventually you will be presented with a situation you will need this kit. Below you will see a picture of mine. It includes items such as spare line, a multi tool, nail clippers, spare points and tips, super glue, bow string wax, lighter, tape measure, digital scale, spare string and arrow nocks, various fasteners, battery (for scale), electrical tape, nock pliers, and O-rings. Your multi tool should include a flat and phillips head screw driver, knife, file(for dull tips),and pliers point with a wire cutter. Not pictured but still a nice addition are zip lock bags for keeping items like a wallet, camera, or smokes dry. I strongly suggest you double bag items, yellow and blue make green does not always guarantee dry items. Just ask my buddy after he tried smoking wet cigs!  Also not pictured but included in my gear is a stringer. These items all fit nicely into a small, lightweight fanny pack. The reason the lighter is in there is if you should bend a point as I have, you will have to heat it up to remove it from the arrow in order to replace it. I also should note that spare arrows should be brought along. I suggest at least one extra arrow per person.

 

 

          Now is where things can get expensive. Do you like the spot and stalk method? If so, walking along ditches, rivers, and lake edges is for you. This method is also a great way to get started bowfishing and can continue until you can afford a boat. For now let’s forget the boat. Just about any time of year you can expect to see carp. Around mid to late May is when spawning occurs, that is when the shooting action increases. You will need a set of polarized sunglasses for shooting during day time hours. These will decrease the sun’s glare on the water, allowing you to see better into it. You may also get a pair of waders, or just wear shorts, whatever suits you best.

 

         And on to boats. A boat can be modified in many ways. I will attempt to keep this as simple as possible, yet include as much as possible without going into too many details. Your boat will need to fit in the waters you plan to bowfish. The johnboat style is very common for bowfishing. Remember that the wider the boat, the more displacement of water it will offer. This is important in two ways. It allows you to fish shallower water, as well as stability when multiple shooters are standing up front. The only drawback is that the wider boat will not allow you to access narrow river channels. A shooting platform is a nice addition, but not a must. The higher the platform, the more stability you will need. In other words, a boat that is 48 inches wide should have a lower platform than a boat that is 72 inches wide. You must also keep in mind the amount of shooters. Float pods may be welded to the back of the boat that allows your boat to get into even shallower waters, as well as load up on even more fish. They simply raise the flotation level of your boat higher. Some options for your boat can include lights on the platform (for night bowfishing), a generator for the lights, a trolling motor, a fan motor, a flats stand, and staple gear such as a push pole, gaff hook, fish bonker, snare, bucket or cooler for fish storage, and all necessary equipment for regulations. Below are pictures of bowfishing boats.

 

 

        

          There are several other items available that you can use to further modify your bowishing set-up. Included is a float to attach to the end of your line to follow if a large fish takes out all of your line, a pole to attach to your reel seat that will aid you in fighting the fish, a knob that attaches to the end of your reel seat that can be used to wrap your line around and pull to remove an arrow stuck in snags saving your fingers, and a no-glove that attaches to your bow string so you can use bare fingers.

 

          I think by now you are more than ready to go stick a fish. Be sure to read the fishing regulations and know the laws before you go out, and if you are unsure just call your local game warden and ask that person. Remember that no matter what type of bowfishing you plan on doing, take a child and teach them. Be safe and I hope to see more people shooting the waters that I frequent!